Liwa and the Empty Quarter, Tal Moreeb and the Al Dhafra Festival

Wednesday, December 22nd, we headed off by car to Liwa and the Empty Quarter. It was a 3 hour journey through the desert (150 km from Abu Dhabi). 

Driving through the magnificent sand dunes

During our 3 day stay we visited the highest hill (of sand) in the world (Tal Moreeb) We were also invited to visit a farm while I was taking pictures of camels in the desert.

The first camels we came across in the Liwa desert

The highest sand hill in the world, Tal Moreeb, site of many competitions

We got to hold baby lambs, feel the babies moving inside the pregnant camels, and have tea with the farmers inside their trailer. The oldest was a man from Pakistan who had been here 20 years training racing camels.

Jen sitting against the camel

The nephew of the camel trainer

The camel racing trainer who invited us in for tea

One of the babies

We attended the Al Dhafra Festival which was amazing. We were welcomed by local Emirati guides who proudly shared the highlights of the festival with us.

This was a very proud camel

We were taken to the Camel Beauty Competition (Asayel, the local Emirate camel, and Majahim , the dark camels from Saudi Arabia). Some of these camels are worth a million dollars. The prizes for winning are four wheel drive  SUVs, and cash prizes. People from all over Arabia come to compete. The camels are judged by type of camel, (in their categories) for  upward straightness of ears, size and sloping angle of nose, size of eyes, height of hump, size of animal, length of neck, legs and feet, coat, etc.

Handcrafted camel jewelry

Here's looking at you kid

This young boy asked me to take his picture while sitting up on the fence of the camel judging

We were taken to the guest stand, offered the ubiquitous coffee and dates, and then into the corrals where the animals were being judged.

The royal treatment in the stands for the camel beauty contest

This man was an entertainer and joked that he would steal Jen away to marry him

A very proud and happy camel man walking back to the camps

We attended the falcon competition. There were 165 falcons sitting on stands in the central tent. They were taken individually to be released for their race which we were able to view from inside the tent and out. Their times and positions were posted and cheers ensued when a falcon beat the others.

The falcons waiting to race

Our attentive guide Ahmed at the festival with one of the falcons ready to compete

We  were taken to the race track where we saw young camels being trained to race, some with robot jockeys controlled remotely by their owners, who drive alongside the camels in their SUV's where the owner can encourage them on.


We were invited to Sheikh Mohammed bin Zayed al Nahyan's camp to attend lunch and celebrations in the desert camp.

Inside of the camp tent for the ladies

Ali's turn to have henna

Jens beautiful hands

Jen having henna applied in the camp tent

Roger sat with the Arab men, ate food with his fingers including camel meat, and watched the traditional hair dance done by the ladies and song and dance by the men. Jen and I ate in our own tent, and the ladies made beautiful henna patterns on our hands.  

Exciting camel ride

Then we were offered camel rides of which of course we accepted. It was quite exciting as the camel rose up from his knees as it was quite a sideways motion. And they are tall! They move both feet on one side together and it feels much more comfortable than sitting on a horse.

Gate to the Mohammed Bin Zayed camp

Inside the majalis

Roger in front of a Datsun similar to the one he used to own

We went back to the festival and saw the classic car show and tasted dates in the date competition. (also for big prize money) There was also the traditional souk, the market of wares.

You should mark the month of December and this festival on your calendar. It is unforgettable to experience the kind hospitality and generosity of the Emirati people, the scenic splendour and opportunity to see their passion for camels and falcons. It also gives you a glimpse into their culture, heritage, handicrafts and cuisine.